Btjttowhoue-sewibra machine



. 43. KLIEN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICAHOH FILED SEPT. 23. 1916.

1,339,732, rmnmllayil, 1920.

IN VE N TOR WITNESS E. 8. ALiEN. BUITONHOLE sawms MACHiNE.

APPLWHQN "Lib SEPT. 23 I916.

2 9 Z 1 H um. s mm w .36 M 8 km E m Run, P

a .QN R m at m MEN nmnusr I E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION HLED SEPT.23, 1915- 8 SHEETS--5HEET INVENTOR M /J fla BY fwaPatehted May 11,1920.

A ITORNEY E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWlNG MACHINE.

APPLICAHDN HLED SEPT. 23, I915.

Patented May 11,1920.

8 SHEETS-SHEET 5- E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOL E sewmc MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 23, 19l6.

1,339,732. Patented May 11,1920.

8 $HEETS-SHEET I.

WITHE88= INVEMTOR A TTOIi'NE Y E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION mm SEPT. 23,

"'' Patented May 11, 1920.

8 SHEETS-SHEET 8.

ATTORNEY UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

EDWARD B.

MANUFACTURING COMPANY,--A CORBO AlLLEN, OF BRIDGEPOB-T, CQNNECTICUT,ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER }ATION OF NEW JERSEY.

Bu'rToNHonE-snwmc MACHINE.

7'0 alt whom it may comma;

Be it known that I, Enhcme B ALfJZN, a citizeniof the United Statesresiding at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairheld' and State ofConnecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inButtonholeSewing Macliines,of which the following is a specification,reference being lied therein to the accompanying drawings.

Sewing machines, as heretofore; con structed for producing buttonholestextile fabrics, have been customarily provided with adjusting means fordetermining the periodof cooperation of the stitch forming and feedingmechanisms and the. length of travel ofthe work for production ofdifierent sized buttonholes, and variationflin the traverse of the workhas usually affected its speed-of movement in. spacing thestitches so asto require readjustment to1 cause the groper laying of the stitchesaround the uttonhole. These adjustments required an intimate knowledgeof the mechanism of a degree not possessed by the ordinary sewingmachine operator, and therefore neces- "sitated the care of the machineunder such condition by a special machinist.

The present invention has for an object to so construct machines of thisclass that they are susceptible of such changes with quickness andprecision, so as to insure the greatest economy in the operators time inchanging from one to a different class of work and avoid the employmentof an experienced machinist in connection with the ordinary use of asewing machine under normal working conditions. The invention has for afurther object to provide me ns for changing the spacing of the stitchesnot only independently of'the means for con- 1, trolling therange ofmovement of the work but in such manner that th'rsgnav he quickly andaccurately efl'pcted regardless of the skill of the operator..

The invention has for a further object to Jrovide a machine which shallbe effective in operation and shall have the necessary safe-guards toinsure precision in the sequence of operation of its several trains ofmechanism.

While the present invention is not limited to embodiment in machines ofany particular type or construction, it is especially adapted forbuttonhole cutting and stitchspecification of Lettersfatent Patentgd May 11, 1920, Monica filed sebum-Ber 23, 1915;. Serial, No. 121,733. a

holder and a feed-wheel connected there-- with and adapted to impart toit traveling movements suitable for production of the longest buttonholefor which the machine is designed. liemovably mounted upon the machineand detachably connectednvith the feed-wheel, with which it is normallymaintained in driving relation, is a controlling wheel provided with acamrack engaged by a follower connected with the stop-motion wherebyboth the starting and stopping of the machine shaft is effected. Thecontrolling wheel is further provided with turning means which areactive while the main-shaft is at rest, during which period itspropulsion of the feed-wheel acts through various connections to performcertain operations auxiliary to the production and spacing apart of thestitches around the buttonhole.

"The machine preferably contains buttonhole cutting mechanism comprisingtraveling coiiperative cutting elements actuated by a cutter-shaftindependent of the mainshaft and adapted to be automatically conplcd toand uncoupled from a. continuously running driving element connected.with the source of power. Means are preferably provided, which areperiodically connected with said driving element, for initially closingthe work-holder upon the work and spreadinn the same and then setting inmotion the controlling' wheel actuating means in the perfornian eoi' aluittonhole";iroducing cycle.

The invention will be understood by reference to-the accompanyingdrawings, in which Figure 1 15 a front side view of a.

machine embodying the present improvements, and Fig. 2 a plan of thesame with the bracket-arm standard in section and the parts above thesection plane removed. Fig.

3 is a rear side elevation of the machine and Fig. 1 :1 bottom plan ofthe same. Fig. 5 is a front end elevation of the machine and Fig. 6 arear end elevation thereof with the l..-racln t-arm standard intransverse section to expose partswithin the same. Fig. 6- is aperspective view representing a portion of the stop-motion device. Fig.7 is a perspective view representing various operative parts of themachine with the frame represented in dotted lines. Fig. 8 is aperspective view representing the controlling wheel and its actuatin andcontrolling means, and Fig. 9 is a are view of a different controlhngwheel detached. Fi 10 is a perspective view of a portion 01 theStop-motioncontrolling mechanism.

Figs. 11 and 12 are perspective views of the lower work-clampingelements and their rrier, respectively, with certain accessories. Figs.13 and 14 are perspective views and Fig. 15 a sectional plan of parts ofthe work-clamp side-shifting means. Fi 16 is a perspective view of aportion of the clamp' preading means. Fig. 17 is a perspective view ofthe feed-wheel and the means for imparting turning movements to thestitch-forming mechanism. Figs. 18 to 21, inclusive, are perspectiveions, and Fig, 2 a sectional plan, representing detache certaincoiiperating elements of the starting mechanism. Fig. 23 is aperspective view representing portions of the clamp-opening andtension-releasing means. Fi .Z-i is a sectional elevation representingthe needle-jogging means, and Figs. 25, 26 and are perspective views ofcertain of its parts detached. Fig. 28 is a transverse sectionalelevation of the overhanging member of the bracket-arm and the take-updevice. Fig. 29 is a. perspective view of the buttonhole cutting deviceand its actuating means. and Fig. 30 a transverse section representingthe cutter-carrier and replaceable cutters sustained thereby.

As represented in the drawings the frame of the machine is constructedwith the hollow base 1 from which risesdhe bracket-arm composed of thestandard 2 and tubular overhanging arm 3 terminating in the ho]- lowhead 4. Journaled within and longitudinally of the base 1 is themaitushaft 5 carrying near its rearward end the bevel gear 6 meshingwith a similar gear 7 secured upon the lower end of the 'i1prigl1t.shaft8. Secured upon the upper end of the shaft 8 is the hub 9 of a bevelgear 10 beneath which and upon the hub 9 is secured the similar bevelgear 11. Meshing with the gears 10 and 11 are the smaller and largerbevelgears 12 and 13, respectively, the one being fixed upon the upperneedle driving shaft 14 journaled in the mer her 3 of the bracketarm andthe other fixed upon the rearward end of th tubular shaft or sleeve 15surroundin the shaft 14 and adapted to rotate independently thereof. Asrepresented in Fig. 1, the intermeshing gears 11 and 13 are of the samediameter to transmit o erative movements from the shaft 8 to the s eeve15 in unison, While the driven bevel-gear or pinion 12 is of one-halfthe diameter of the driving bevel-gear 10, whereby the needledrivingshaft 14 is driven at double the speed of the upright shaft 8.

In general construction and arrangement of parts, the needle mechanismof the resent improvement is similar to that a? my Patent No. 1,161.277,of November 23, 1915, the tubular needle-bar 16 being journaled in upperand lower bearings afforded respectively by the boss 17 and the rotarysleeve 18, and deriving its reciproQtqi-y movements from connectionscluding the pitman 19 and the crank-e merit 20 secured upon the forwardend of the needle-actuating shaft 14.

he needle-bar sustains at its lower end a yoke 21 upon which isslidingly mounted the laterally jogging needle-holding block 22 in whichis secured the shank of the needle 23. The block 22 is provided with aleterally adjustable section 22' secured thereto by a clamp-screw 22 bymeans of which the lateral working position of the needle may bedetermined. In the present needlejogging mechanism. the forked arm 24 ofthe angular switch-lever embraces a lateral -pin 25 of an intermediatelever 26 fulcrumed upon the needle-bar yoke 21 and carrying a shoulderedstud 27 entering a slot of the needle-holding block. The stud 27 isadjustable in a slot extending lengthwise of the lever 26, so as toprovide for adjustment of the amplitude of lateral jogging movements ofthe needle.

The loop-taking echanism cooperating with the reciprocating and jogginneedle is preferably constructed substantia ly in accordance with thatof my Patent No. 1,030,046. of June 18. 1912, and comprises the eyedlooper 28 and opposed non-threaded looper 29 with overlying spreader 30,all mounted upon the rocking looper-carrier 31 which is sustained by therotary turret 32 journaled in a bearing bracket 33 sustained within thebase 1. Cooperating with the threaded looper 29 and working transverselythereof is the loop-detainer 34. The looger mechanism coiiperates withthe latent jogging needle 23 in the production of a. chain-stitchover-seam.

The work-holder and its operating means are constructed in substantialaccordance with my Patent No. 1.136388, of Apr-i120, 1915. althoughdiffering therefrom in certain important features. It is mounted uponthe cross slide-plate 35 having at its forward end the dependingapertured lugs 36 fitted upon the cross-rod 37 which is sustained by thelongitudinally traveling shrieplate 19* mounted in a suitable slidewayin the top ol' the bed 1. The slidc-plate 555 has in its forward end theclosclv spaced notches ll) entered by the, bond d pivotal stud 40depending from the :uljaccnt forward corners of the, swingingclamp-plates ill. The studs l are detachaldy confined within theirrespective notches 155) by means oi the angular spring-plates 40 securedupon the under side oi the cross slide-plate 35 and notched in theiradjacent edges to embrace and engage the heads of the respective studs4) below which they may be |-n'esscd to release the studs for removal oftho clamp-plates 41.

lincb of the clamp-plates has secured upon its rearward end a ln'aringbrncket comprising the spaced upwardly extending plates 42 formed atopposite ends with apertures 43 and H to receive respe tively theclamp-arm l'ulcrmn-pin 45 will the clamp-closing: rock- I shall; 46.

Upon the fulcrum-[nus 45 are mounted by suitable .ureans the rear endsof the cln|up-nru1s 47 each carrying the pivotally mounted clamping foot48 with serrated lower face opposed to" the rorrcs )On'd ingly serratedfaces of the work-clan ping iorticns t!) of the clamp-plates 41, whose;ad iaccnt edges are recessed as usual toalford clearance for thestitrlrforining mechanism in thc ,titching ot buttonholes. Therocksbal't it? is provided with the usual depending ram projectimis 5acting upon wearing plates 51 overlying the clamp-arms 47 and serving;'to depress the latter in opposition to tl eir lifting springs 52. Anadjustable r-rtop-scrcw 5d sustained by the rock-shaft 46 engages one ofthe wearing plates 51 to limit the closing movement of the shaft andtappct-arn s 54 also carried by said rockshat'ts and engaging:stop-lugs, 55 adjustably secured -to the bracket members 4). serve tolimit thc clamp-opening movements 01" these rock-shafts.

Upon the adjacent ends of the rock-shafts 46 are secured the upwardlyextending arms 56 and 57 which are Pl'UVh d with pin-andslot connectionsfor; insuring the clampopcning and closing movements of said rocloshafts in unison. Suitably journaled within the bcd l is u transversefeed-shaft 58 upon which is lixed the teed-wheel 59 formed with thercarwardly extending tubular hub (EU. The wheel 59 has in its forwardface the work-feuding cam-groove (H which is entcrod by a stud (32intermediate the ends of a lever 63 having; its hub (34 journaled uponthe fixed fulcrum'stud (i5 and connected at its opposite end by means ofthe link 66 with :1 lug 67 depending from tbiwork-bolder sustainingslide-plate 38. 'lhrough the dcsrribed connections, the feedwvheelimparts to the work-holder longitudinal traveline movements having arange which is uniforni' slide-plate 35. Through the described con- 7nections, the work-holder derives from the feedwheel uniform side-shiftmovements in each buttonholc producing cycle.

The boss 72 has in one siden longitudinal slot 77 with countersunkrecesses 78 at the ends to receive the head of the clamp-screw 79 whoseshank passes through the slot 77 and enters a threaded aperture 80 inthe pin 73. By retracting the screw Til sufliciently for its head toemerge from either of the cavities "(8, it mav be used to shift theroller stud 75 upwardly or downwardly, respectively, into or out of theguideway 76 of the cross slidoplnte 35, the. turning of the screwineither of the extreme positions of the pin 73 serving to lock its headwithin the respective rarity 78.

When the roller-stud 75 is retracted from its normal position in theguidewny 76', the rock-lever 70 is adapted to move idly without'cti'ertupon the work-holder, and the machine is adapted for stitching straightbut}- tonholes. l-nder this condition of adjustment, the set-screw 8L,normally screwed into a holding aperture 82 of .the boss 72, isintroduced into a threaded aperture 83, Fig. 4, in one of the lugs 2&6and serves to clamp the same to the cross-rod 37 so as to prevent theaccidental lateral shifting of the workholdcr during the operation ofthe machine.

Similarly to the machine represented in any said Tatcnt No. 1,030,046,the needlebar bearing sleeve 18 has fixed thereon the pinion H4 engagedbythn rack 85 which is" 11: turn connected for reciprocation with theslidcbnr Rf; journaled in the machine frame. The tubular spindle 87 ot'the notary turret 32 has fixed thereon the piniorfBP-l meshing with therack 54!) secured in the forward end of the slide-bar on which ismounted in bearings Within the base I. The bars 81) and 90 {arerigidly,connected by means of a frame member 91 secured upon the bar 90and having an upwardly and forwardly projecting arm 92 carrying thecoupling plate 93 embraced by the spaced collars 94 upon the bar 86 andformed with a notch 93 embracing the bar 86.

The frame 91 is connected by means of thelink 95 with the upper end of aswinging: lever 96 having its opposite end the aperturcd boss 97journaled upon the fixed stud-pin 98 and having intermediate its ends alaterally projecting boss 99 carrying the roller-stud 100 which entersthe cam-groove 101 in the forward face of the feed-wheel 59. In therotation of the feed wheel, the bars 86 and 90 are moved first rearward]and then returned to initial position for e footing first asemi-rotation of the stitchformi mechanism in the stitching of the eyeof t e buttonhole and then turned in the opposite direction to restorethe stitching mechanism to initial position, in a manner well known.

As will be observed by; reference more particularly to Fig. 4:, the use1 has a housing recess in its forward side formed between the forwardand rearward transverse framemembers 1' and 1" and the longitudinallyextending member 1" having a rearwardly offset portion 1"" sustainingthe fulcrum-stud 98 and formed with a suit able clearance aperture forpassage of the roller-stud 100 entering the cam-groove in,

the adjacent face of the feed-wheel 59 disposed in the said framerecess.

The mechanism for actuating the feedwheel for producing relative feedingmovements between the work-holder and the stitch-forming mechanism ineach stitching period is similar in general construction to that of myPatent No. 1,234,252, dated July 21, 1917, although diilering therefromin detail. Secured upon the upright shaft 8 ,is a bevel pinion 102meshing with a similar pinion 102) fixed upon the transverse shaft 104which is journaled in the bearing boss 105 of the frame-member 1" andcarries upon its outer end the driving disk 106 car rying the twodiametrically opposite and eccentrically disposed stud-pins 107. Thestud-pins 107 are adapted to enter the radial spaces 108 intermediatethe peripheral teeth 1020i the driven disk or member mounted upon thehearing stud 110 sustained by the basemember 1" As indicated in Fig. 3,the periphery of the driven member embraces the axis of the drivingshaft 104 the peripheral teeth 109 differing in form rom those of mysaidpatent in the provision of radial interdental spaces, therebyreducing the nterval of dwell in the initial engagement of each of thedriving pins 107 therewith while in practice .providing a suilicientdwell for interruption of the travel of the work .while the needle isdescending through it and rising sulliciently to present its loop forseizure by the loop-taker. The driven wheel has secured thereto thegear-wheel 111 meshing with a lar r gear wheel 112 which is mounted upont e hearing stud 113 carried by a lateral arm 114 of an angle leverfulcrumed concentrically with the stud 110 and having :1 depending arm115 formed with a segmental slot 116 concentric with the stud 110 andentered by the clampscrew 117 tapped into the frame member 1 and adaptedto secure the angle-lever in anyI position of circular adjustment.

pon the hub 112 of the gear 112 is loosely mounted the ratchet-wheel 118having a tubular hub 11S upon which is loosely fitted the change-wheel119 formed with an eccentrically disposed aperture entered by the pin120 projecting from the adjacent face of the ratchet-wheel 118 to causethem to rotate in unison while permitting the replacement of onechange-wheel by another of different size. The head of a cap-screw 121tapped into the end of the stud 113 serves to confine the gears 112 and119 and the intermediate ratchet-wheel 118 in operative relation.

The ratchet wheel 118 and the gear 112 are connected to rotate in unisonin oils irection by means of the clutch-pawls 1 2,

which are mounted upon diametrically (fpposite studs 123 sustained uponthe rearward face of the gear 112 and pressed into operative relationwith the peripheral teeth of the ratchet-wheel by means of springs 124.The pawls are spaced apart circumferentially in multiples of aratchet-tooth length, less a half-tooth length, in a manner well knownin connection with ratchet mechanism.

The change-heel 119 is maintained in mesh with the larger gear-wheel 125having its hub 125' fitted upon the hub 60 of the feed-wheel and securedthereon by means of the cross-pin 126 passin through both hubs and thefeed-wheel sha t to insure their r0 tation in unison. By the meansdescribed, the driven wheel 108 109 receives two forward impulses foreach rotation of the mainshaft throughout a stitching period, theseimpulses being transmitted through the described train of gearing to thefeed-wheel shaft and through it the feed-wheel fixed thereon, and hencerelative feeding diurements are produced through the operation of thefeed-wheel between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holderthroughout each stitching period. The wheel which carries the teeth 109and which partal'res of a progressive step-by-ste movement in onedirection, may be consi ered as a driving member for the feed-wheel 59.The ratchet wheel 118 and clutch-pawls 122 thus constitute one-wayacting connecting means be tween the driving member and the feedwheel.

The gear-wheel 125 has upon its rearward face the laterally projectingpin 127 entering an aperture 128 in the controlling wheel 129 which isformed with two segmaital series of ratchet teeth 130 separated by alarger ratchet-tooth 131 extending out .30 The pri '40 rock-shaft 145.

-'iivardly beyond the points of the adjacent teeth and m circumfereptialalinement with the smootliperipheral portion 132 of the wheel. -Betweenthe peripheral portion 132 v 5 and the last ratchet-tooth of thepreceding series there is a pawl-lifting incline 133, and between theopposite end of said smooth per1pheralport1on and the first tooth of thesucceeding series of ratchetteeth there is man abrupt should er 134. Thecontrolling wheel129 has upon its rearward face a stopinotioncontrolling annular rib 135 cut away upon one side to forri a segmentalrecess terminating at one'end in the inclined shoulder 136 and at theother end in anabrupt forked to embrace the gear-wheel hub 125' which isformed with diametrically opposite slits to receive the same .(Fi 3 and4). Within'said recess the controfiing wheel is shown provided withthumb-screws 139 whose heads afi'ord handles by which one controllingwheel of a set may be retracted,- after wi drawal of the spring lockinglate 1313 for. lacemcnt by another whichunay be similarly locked inplace.

here} teeth 130 of the controlling wheel' or e ement are adapted foreng'age ment by the chisel-pointed block 140 adjustably secured upon thereciprocating awl-bar 141 formed upon its loweredge mtermediate its endswith the flat seat 142 and having its downwardly inclined rearward endpivotally connected by mea'ns of the stud-pin 143 with a crankarm 144sea cured upon the adjacent end of atransverse The rock shaft 145hassecured thereon intermediate its ends the crank-arm 146 (Fig. 7)pivotally connected by means of the link 1 17 to the strap 148 embracingan actuating eccentric 149 formed upon the hub 150. (Fig. 1) of theloose beltwheel 151 mounted upon the main-shaft 5 and constantly drivenby a belt connection with the source of power in a manner wellknown.

Q The pawl-bar 1-11 thus performs constant reciprocating movementsand'operates, when in engagement with the ratchet-teeth of thecontrolling wheel, to impart to the feed wheel shaft, and hence to thefeed-wheel,

' 5 two step-by'step partial rotations at a comthe feed-wheel for eachbuttonholc producinq cycle.

he pawl-bar 141 is normally maintained 'lifted out of operative relationwith the periphery of the controlling wheel by means of 15* theanti-friction roller 1532 (Figs. 7 and Q) i 129 constitute trippingmeans carrie 'the screw-pin 164'. upon the wheel is formed in its innermounted upon the stud 15-") projecting from the inner face of adepending holding arm 154- having its hub loosely jo'urnaled upon thefllll'l'lllll-Illl] 156 mounted ina hear ing brat-ketlS? sustained bythe machine.

frame. The arm 15-1 has an extension 15 1' provided with an car 158 towhich is attached one end of a spring 13!) havinp its ezppositc endattached to a fixed pin 160 igs. 4 and H) by means of which theroller-stud 152 is normally pressed against the side face of the[)1l\\'l-l)lll' 141 beneath which it snaps when the pawl-tooth at theend of the bar 141 rises sulliciently ,in' its engagement with theinclined face of the ratchet-tooth 131 or the inclined shoulder 1.33adjacent the peri heral portion 132 of the controlling whceii'l'l1c'roller-152 is preferably of slightly taper form toward its outerend so as to act as a wedge under the impulse of the spring 159 to givethe pawlhar a supplemental lifting movement to retract its pawl-toothclear of the periphery of the controlling wheel when disengagedtherefrom. Motion for the rapid food of the work preparatory andsubsequent to stitching is thusnlerived from the.pulley wheel 151 whichconstitutes a continuously rotatiug )otrer element. The tooth 131 andshe (ler 133 on the teed-controllin wheel 5 by the feedeshaft 58 forelfecting the disconnectionof the latter from pawl 14-1 and itsactuating connections with the pulley 151. he hub 155 of the arm 154 hasa later ally extending arm 161 having an upturned tooth 162 with anupwardly and forwardly inclined operative face adapted foii'engagementwith the similarly inclined face of a tripping pawl 163 fulcrumed bymeans of depending crank-arm 165 of a'transvcrse rock-shaft 166journaled in the standard 2, said pawl being normally maintained pressedin contact with the head of the stop-screw 167 by means of a s ring 168secured upon said crank-arm. he tripping pawl 163 has a lateral arm 169by means of which it may be moved in opposition to the spring 168 todisengagethe flat nose of the pawl-tooth from that of the arm 161 atcertain times.

As disclosed more fully in my said Patent 0. 1,136,388, the transversecutter-actuating shaft 170 carries at its forward end a loose constantlydriven belt-wheel 171 which is driven by means of an encircling beltconnected with the source of power. The beltface with the cam-groove 172having at one point in its periphery the eiecting block 173 with upposite'ly inclined ends. This cam'groove is adapted to he entered by theSpring-pressed and normally retracted plunger-pin 1T4 mounted within asocket in a boss 17 5 upon one of the arms 176Lof a plural-armed rock-nelway 184 of the base, Fig. .185 connected at opposite curls with aneye lever which is formed with a lateral clampolosin arm 177 and 2:depending clampsprea ing arm 178, and is fulcrumed at the junction ofits arms upon the stud-screw 179 tapped into the arm standard 2. At thebeginning of a buttonhole-prodiu:ing cycle, the plunger-pin 17 4 ispermitted to enter the cam-groove 172. and in the continued rotation. ofthe belt-wheel 171. the plural-armed lever receives a single rockingmovement, after which the plunger-pin is ejected by means of the block173.

The leverairm 177 carries at its outer end the roller-stud 180 which isadapted to en gage the upper edge of the lateral crankarm 181 fixed u onthe forward end of the rock-shaft 46 0 the adjacent work-clamp sectionwhereby the connected roolcshafts are turned to effect the depression ofthe rcspective clamping feet 48 upon the work.

The depending lever-a rm 178 is connected beneath the top of the base 1by means of the link 1532 with a depending lug 1825 of a slide-plate 183mounted in a suitable chan- 7 A spring of the lug 183 and a stud of thebasc 1 serves to draw the slide-plate n43 ar-l thc link 182 forwardlyinto normal position. The slide-plate 183 has a lateral lug 186sustaining, the screw-pin is? which affords a fulcrum for one end of aswinging latchlever 188 having at its opposite end the up turned lug 189normally pressed outwardly by means of a spring 191) secured at one endto the screw-pin 187 and having its opposite end resting against the lug1H9.

When the machine is at rest. the lug 1 9 normally rests against the sideface of thc depending portion of the transverse hcad 191 of a rook-lever19; (Figs. 2 and 113) fulcrumed intermediate its ends upon thcstud-screw .193 and having connected with its oppositely extending arinonc cod of a link 194. The other end of said link is connected to oneend of the rock-lever 195 which is fulorumed upon the stufhscrew 15 1iand is connected at its opposite ends \vithlthc tog gle links 197. Theiulcruln-stiul 196 issue tained by a erossmelnher 35 of the crossslide-plate 35, and the fulcrulnstml 19:1 is similarly sustained liy oneof the overlying plates 198 secured upon said cross slide-plate adjacentopposite edgcs thcrcol'. (Fig. 12).

overlying the plates 198 are the spreader slide-plates 199 to which therespective toggle links 197 are pi votallv connected by means of thescrew-pins 200. The oppositely extending arms of the rock-lever 195 andthe links 197 together constitute connected toggle devices for forcingapart and drawing together the spreading slide plates 1.99.

Each of the plates 199 carries a stud-pin 201 adapted to en age the headof a stoppin 202 sustained hy a lug; 203 having its foot 201 securedupon the outer side face of one of the hearing brackets 42 of thework-holder. The free ends of the clamp plates are pressed toward eachother for such engagement of the stop-pins 2112 with the stud-pms 201 bymeans of springs 205 secured at. one end upon the respectiveclanip-plato by the fastening screws 2116 and having their opposite endsresting in contact with the grooved stuihpins 2417 upon the plates 198.

In the rocking of the plural-armed clampclosing lcvcr, the slide-plate183 is first drawn hackwardly by the levenarm 175 to cnahlc the lug 189to snap outwardly hrhind the head 191 of the lever 19:! after which inits return movement it turns the lever 19; upon. its fulcrum and therebystraighten the togglcs 19.1, 197 and forces apart the slidcilatcs 199which correspondingly sprcads hc clamp-plates with. their cooperativework r-lamp elements. In this spreading movement. a stoppiu 2118 uponthe. plate 199 serves to prcicnt the overthrow of the lever 19:2.

(ounccted with the spreading rock-lever 191") at its junction with thelink 197 toward the rearward side of the machine is onc arm of atappetlever 209 fulcrumed in tc'nncdiate'its ends upon the screw-stud210 upon the cross slide-plate and having an oppositely extending armwhose outer end lichwithin the range of movement of one cud ot the triprod 21.1 slidingly mounted wil hin the base of the bracket 1.57 andhavin at its opposite end the upwardly extcnding lug 212. The lug 212 isnormally disposed within the range of action of a cam projection 213upon the rearward end of the cutter-shaft 179, and in the rotation ofsaid cutter-shaft for actuation of the buttonhole cutting device at thecompletion of a stitching operation, the ram 213 advances the trip rodto engage the tappet-lever which causes the bending of the t ggles andthe unspreading of the work-hol er.

Connected at one end with theilever-arm 17a is a link 21.4 pivotallyconnected at its oppositc end with a crank-arm 215 fixed upon theforward end of the rock-shaft 166. The actuation of the clamp -elosinglever acts through the described connections to rock the shaft 166 andto thereby impart o ierative movements to the crank-arm 165 carrying thetripping pawl 163 to effect the operative ei'igagement of the pawl-bar141 with the controlling wheel.

Journaled upon the fulcrum-stud 216 tapped into the standard 2 is thehub 21.7 of the starting rock-lever having a depend ing arm 21S and aforwardly extending arm 219 formed at its free end with a lateral lug290 having an elongated aperture to receive the upper end of the treadlerod 221 having at its upper end the spaced thrustnnts 222 and providedbelow the same with the thrust collar 223 intermediate which and acollar 224 sustained by the base is interposed the sprin 225 actingthrough the rod 221 to retain t e starting lever in stopping position.When actuated to start the machine, the edgeof the lever-arm 218 engagesthe round nose of the latch-arm 226 fulcrumed upon the fixed studscrew227 and normally maintained in latching position by means of the spring228 by which it is held yieldingly in contact with the stop-screw 229.The latcha-rm 226 has a lateral extension 226 by means of which it mayhe tripped to release the starting lever. v

The starting lever-arm 218 has upon its inner face a screw-stud 230 uponwhich is mounted the tripping arm 231 yieldingly maintained in contactwith the stop-pin 232 by means of the spring 233 having one end securedby the screw 234 upon the arm 218 and'the other and r ting upon the edgeof the tripping arm 1g. 19). Lying within the range of movement of thetripping arm is a lateral stud 235 llpOl'l one arm of a latchreleaselever 236 fulcrumed intermediate its ends upon the stud-pin 237sustained by the swinging latch-lever 238 having its hub 23!) jom'naledupon the stud-screw 240 which is tapped in the standard 2. Thelatch-lever 238 carries a stoppin 241. to limit the movement of thelever 236 thereon, and

has 3. depending latch-tooth 242.

The plunger-pin 174 has a reduced ortion extending rearwardly throughthe ruttom of the socket 175 and provided with a lateral notch 174' withits farther extremity inclined for engagement with the latchtooth 242 ofthe latch-lever 238 which normally maintains the plungenpin 174retract-ed in opposition to its sprin 174". The strength of the spring243, which nor mally presses the lever 238into latching position issuilicient to overcome the tension of the spring 174" when thelatch-tqoth 242 engages the inclined end of the notch. 174' to force theplunger-pin backwardly so as to maintain its head slightly retractedfrom the range of movement of the ejecting block 173 of the cam-groove172.

\Vhen the treadle rod 221 is drawn downwardly, the starting lever ismoved into starting position wherein it is held throughout abutton]iole-producing cycle by the latch-arm 226. In this movement, theedge of the tripping arm 231 engages the stud 235 of the release-lever236 and tilts the latter into engagement with the stop-pin 241, therebyretracting the latch-lever 238 in opposition to its spring to releasethe plunger pin 174. In case i the lunger-p1n should enter thecam-groove 1 2 in front of the ejecting block 173, it wonld he merelyforced thereby interrupting the rigid connection between the startinglever and the latch lever and permitting the latter to return tooperative engagement with the side of the plunger-pin under the actionof its spring 243, the latch-lever following the lateral movements ofsuch pin, and snapping into its holding notch 174 when next thrustbackwardly b encounter with the ejecting block 173. l. pon the trippin rof the latch arm 226 at the completion 0 a bnttonhole producing cycle,the starting lever springs ack into starting position, the tripping arm231 snapping ast the stud 235 without affecting the re ease lever 236.

While any suitable form of stop-motion may be employed in the presentmachine, one constructed in substantial accordance with that of the U.S. patent to E. B. Allen, Nd. 863,129, of August 13, 1907, is re resenbecl in the accompanying drawings. he driving pulley or belt-wheel151 is provided in its forward face (Fig. 6) with asuhstantiallycylindrical cavity 244 having a slightly prejecting segmental frictionsurface 245 at one side of a diameter dssing through the eccentric 149.Within t c cavity 24-1 is the body of the clutch-wheel 247 having itshuh 248 fixed upon the rearward end .5 the main-shaft 5 and provided atone side with a stop-screw 249. The clutch-wheel is formed in itsforward face with a segmental spring-cavity 250 having at one end arectangular aperture 251 extending from the op osite face of theclutch-wheel, diametrica ly opposite which is a se I ental hearingcavity 202. At opposite sir es of the cavity 252 the clutch-wheelisformed with a depressed peripheral at 253 to receive a suitahlapertured clutch-plate 255.

pplied to the rearward face of the clutch-wheel 247 is the clutch-ring256 having upon itsadjacent face/the projecting thrust-sustaining lug254 entering the aperture 251 and diametrically opposite the same thecam projection 258 fitted within the bearing cavity 252 and having atone end of its flattened up )er face an inclined thrust shoulder 259 atapted to bear upon the inner face of the clutch-plate 255. Theclutch-ring 256 is formed at one side with a peripheral notch 260affording at one side a Jill stop-shoulder 261 and having led tothelever 266 is maintained portion of which the clutch-ring has abackwardly extending cam incline 262. A buffer-spring 263 is interposedbetween the lug 257 and the opposite end of the spring-cavity 250 andserves to maintain said lug seated against the end of the aperture 251with the clutch-ring swung to one side to engage the shoulder 259 of thecam projection 258 pressed against the clutch'plate 2.35 and'the latterin. clutching engagement with the friction surface 245 of the drivingwheel 151.

Fixed upon the rock-shaft 264 journaled in the bearing bracket 265 ofthe base 1 is the stopdever 266 having fitted within its lower portionthe spring-pressed slide-block 267 formed with the lateral tooth 268.This tooth has a side face adapted to bear upon the adjacent face of theclutch'ring and a lower end face adapted to bear upon the cam rib 262,the clutch-lever being normally pressed toward the clutch-ring by meansof a spring 269 interposed between the projection 266' of the stop-leverand the frame standard 2.

The rock-shaft 264 has :1 depending crankarm 270 carrying at its lowerend the lateral stud-pin 271 embraced by the transversely notched end ofthe connecting rod 272 hav ing its opposite end pivotally connected withthe swinging lever 273 which is fulcrumed upon the stud-screw 274sustained by the machine bed. The lever 273 has secured thereon by meansof the screw 27?: the tripblock 276 formed with the blunt-pointedlaterally projecting nose 277 having a rear wardly and downwardlyinclined side, the nose 277 being adopted under the action of the spring269 to rest upon the outer periphery of the cam-rib 136 until itencounters the abrupt shoulder 13? when itentcrs and rests upon thebottom of the segmental cavity until forced outwardly again by oncounter with the inclined shoulder 136. The connecting! rod is drawnupwardly and the pawl-bur ill drawn downwardly l) menus of an interposedspring 278 b whic 1 they are yieldingly connected toget ier.

The rearward end. oi: the rod 272 is supported in engagement with thestudin 271 by means of the lateral lip 279 a flat spring 280 secured tothe inner side of the cranlou'rm 270 and adapted to be pressedbackwaidly to release the rod 272 by means of a push-pin 261 passingthrough the crank-arm and attached to said s ring.

By the means thus describe the stopnormally in stopping position underthe action of its spring 269, with the nose 277 of the trip-block withinthe segmental cavity of the cam-ri 165, in which position of thestopdeyer the looking tooth 268 is within the peripheral notch 260 ofthe clutch-ring and the clutchwhcel is maintained disconnected from thedriving wheel in which condition it remains until the rock-lever 266 istilted by ngage ment of the trip-block with the cam incline 136, whenthe tooth 268 is retracted and the clutch-ring is permitted to swinglaterally upon the cam projection 258 as a fulcrum into clutchingposition. The main-shaft 5 remains clutched to the driving wheel 151until the nose of the tripblock rides oil the cam rib shoulder 13?, whenunder the action of the spring 269 upon the stop-lever 266 the side faceof the tooth 268 rests against the rearward face of the clutch-disk andrides down the cam-incline 262' into operative relation with theeccentric cam-rib 262 which it first presses aside to force the wall ofthe segmental aperture therein against the stop-screw 249 to unclutchthe driving and driven parts after which its further resistance tolaterai yield while the driven parts continue to rotate under their momentum causes the lifting of the slide-block 267 until it returns toregister with the notch 260 which it finally enters under the action ofits spring to lock the main-shaft in initial osition.

The sli e-block 267 carries a lateral stud 282 carrying an anti-frictionroller entering the inclined slot 283 in the rearward arm of arock-lever 28-1 fulcrumed intermediate its ends upon the fixedstud'screw 285 and hav ing a forked forwardly extending arm 2S6embracing a stud-pin 28? upon a lateral crank-arm 28B of the rock-shaft2R9 journaled within and transversely of the base 1. Fixed upon therock-shalt 289 is an arm 290 formed with a segmental cross-member 291having an inclined'cam face adapted for engagement with. the stud-screw292 projecting from a plunger-pin 293 slidingly mounted within a socket294 sustained by the frameanember 1' and normally pressed inwardly by aspring 2923 resting against the lateral pin 293" thereon. Thisplunger-pin is adapted to contact with the head of the contact )in 295:uljnstahly secured within a threaded aperture in the extension 154' ofthe holding arm by means of the lock-nut 296. As the stopleverslide-block 267 rises in the stopping of the main-shaft, the shaft 289is rocked and the holding arm 154 is thereby retracted by theconnections above described so as to permit the pawl-bar 141 to dropunder the action ofthe spring 278 for engagement with the longer seriesof ratchet'teeth 130 for resumption of the rapid movement of thefeed-wheel to return the work from stitching to initial cutting positionand efiect thereturn semi-rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism.

Secured upon the rearward end of the slide-plate 38 by means of screws297 is the laterally extending plate 298 provided with the upstandingtriangular-shaped cam-lug 299 having oonvergently inclined cam-facesupon the innor Side. In the travel of the )Sll'. tltlllilltil forongagoiiiont with tho, latoral arm mam the. tripping pawl 163. To insuroagainst the inunotliato return of tho. stiul 13;! to holding positionbefore the initial Ilosoont of tho pawl-liar 141 from its olovatoilposition preparatory to the initia tion of tho quick motion of thefoeil-oam. it is rotaiuoil tomporarily in retracted position hongagomont ol' the flat noso of tho pawl tooth 163 with that of tho arm16L .U'tor tho pawlhar has oomo into aotiou anrl whom the quirk motionof tho work-hohlor is in progross. tho onoountor of oithorll'l('llfli?(t fare of tho (Mil-lug 29H hy tho arm 30H of the tripping:moiuhor insuros tho tripping of tho pawl 143 5 to roloaso tho hohliugarin 15 i so as to poruiit tho tHlVHIl 'P of tho stlul lfii honoath tholiar H1 whou tho lattor is noxt liftoil sullioiontly in its oporativoongagomont with the oontrolliiu oloniout 125i.

'l'ho huttonholo outtin; ni vhauism of too prosont niar-hino is or mayho ooustruotoil substantially in am-orilam-o with that f th Y. S. patentto E. B. Allou. No. Ll lfijniitlmi' April 13. 191.1 Tho ruttor-shal't1TH oarriostho usual rams 2303 and 304 for oll'ortiug tho olosing of thecutting olonionts upon th work and tho oam-ilislt 30.; formoil iu ouol'aoo with tho oalu-groovo INN; lor otl'ooting tho trawling moroniontsof tho outtor hotwoon i'otrartorl and outting positions. It has alsotixoil upon its front oml tho disk 3 worrying a ."springqirosotlrarlially mov ahlo sliilo-hlook 303 having' a olutoh-ti'ioth PM!) Forongagomont with suitahlo rlutohtooth upon tho looso holt-whool 1T1. thooon trol of this olut h-tuoth hoing oll'oottal hy moans of tho swinginglovor 2H0 l'ul rumotl upon the base at 311 and formotl at its froo onilwith tho ram-plate 312 ooiiporating with said olutoh-lu; in ofl'ootingtho oonnootion and tlisoonneotion of tho outtor-shalt with thoholt-whool 171 for a singlo rotation olilv.

Tho oams 303 and 304 are adapted for onagomont with the upper and luworcutterlorors 313 aotl 314 which are mounted upon tho fulorum pin 315sustained by: the slideplate 316. said lovers being maintainod inongzagzomont with their respective cams hy moans of thosprintr 317. Thoupper cuttorlovor has ilotaohahly socurorl in its forward arm onoouttor-hlook or anvil ill of an intorohangzoahlo sorios of suoh hlnoksof (lifforont longlths. and tho forwarrl arm of tho lowor outtonlovoroarrios a siilowiso shiftahlo holrlor H9 in whioh aro soourod the oyotlcutting knito 5120 and tho straight liltltlHl cutting knife 32] oat-hadapted to replaoo tho othor in cutting rolation with on: of tho ilmlts31H. Tho fuloi'uiiomnyin; tillllt 'llllltt' ilo has oonnootoil thorouithouo oiul of the link-liar 522 harin; its opposito oiul \'olto|l toonilu'aoo tho outtor-shal't E7 aiul proriiloel with a rollor-stuil ilzil onto-n iug: tho oaui-groovo Pail of tho \lisk W3 fr m whirl] thorotting ilovioo llorii'os its trawl ing movomonts tUWItl'tl and fromrotting position. i

Fixwl upon tho loml-whool shaft in is a lisk fril proriiloil with atripping point 325 allaptoil to ongago ouo oiul of tho tl'llrltHI 3:345whioh is l'ulorunual iutoriuoiliato its oiuls upon tho sturl-sorow 322Taml has its opposito oml normally in trippin; rolation with :1 dependingoxtonsion 31 1' of tho outtor-oontrollin; lovor 31". As tho food-whoolshal't noars the owl of a ooiuploto rotation rorros onling with aluittonholo proiluoing o voh-.'tlio trippiu; point 125 ongagos tho lovor32h aiul thorohy otloots tho lutt'h-roloasin; inovouiont of thoronti'ollin loror Il whorohy tho outtor-sha ft is givou an oporatirorotation l'or ollwting tho oporation of tho outtin; ilovioo to out thoproi'iously stit lu-(l huttonholo mill for a luatiu: rortain othorparts. Tho trippin; poiul IrJ-i harin; passoil tho loror 326. tho lattorrollll'lltll to initial position hr moan of tho spring: 32

'lho lmor 'Lti is shown proriiloil in its uppoi' l u uith a(ltillilltl\\tl in Wlllk'l! is littoil tho alhiiilg tripioil t hav ngits roarwaiwl oiui pivotallr ronuoototl with tho throw-out h-Yor W"whh'h' has its lath ilili t'uh-rmuwl upon zho l'ooil whool shalt amtlil'tliitliii with a poriphoral notoh 2 1; for ongagomont with thtop-pin H33 sustainoil lvy tho haso to limit its movouu-nt.

To the throwout loror $53! is pivotaily ('Ullllttltti (mo 'lol ot' alink 1M4 having its opposito oiui t' liliit 'tl'll with tho upwardlyoxtoniling arm H5 oi an anglo lovor fult'l'llfllt l upon tho rook-shaftll?! aiul harin a haolcwarill aiul upwardly oiuw'oil arm .l ll'i whosouppor illltl t ru'ariltv oxt iuiingg oxtroiuity is allaptml to ongagotho iau-ral. oxtousiou 12% of tho latolrariu 1: 3. Tho link 3134 isnormally ilraa'u haoltwaoil r lay moans of tho spring: 32%? ooiuwotiiu:tho sumo with a stud upon tho lmso i whorl-lay tho throwout lovor 33H isiohliugly inainti-iino l with ono oml of its poriphoral non-h 11%; in ongagzomout with tho stoppin i13 ni -l (ho triorotl 32.). oonstitutiug: anouilui morahe sot-lion of tho lovor 32 is in :ritiio relation with thoroutrolling l w-r xto sion 31o (Fig.1). l

Whon it is ilosiroil to prop tho pornial operation of tho ruttiur lin-o. as in tho. oaso of lu'oaltagjo oi tho \hroail or other oonilitionsuniior whioh tho outtin; of a huttonhol slit is not ilosiroil. thothrow-out lovor Wi is manually ilrawn forward,

fill

ltlt" with the operative-edge to"hjet-t?the;round-nosed tooth 360thereby retracting the end of the trip-rod 329 from operative relationwith the controlling lever extension 310', tripping of the lever 326 iseffect the clutching of the cutting mechanism with the belt-wheel 171.At the same time, the lever-arm 336 is advaneettto trip the latch'arm226, thereby permitting the restoration of the starting lever 218-219 toinitial position in readiness for actuation to initiate a succeedingbuttonholeproducmg operation.

Fixed uponone of the clamp-operatmg rock-shafts 46, and preferablyformed 1ntegral 'with the tappet-arnrfii, is a second tappet-arm 338which, when the workholder is closed upon the work, lies in the path ofmovement of the end of a springretracted trip-rod 339 having its adacent end portion journaled in an apertured lug 340 upon a supportingarm 341 sustained by the frame. The 'oppositeend of this triprod 339 ispivotally connected with the up wardly extending arm 342 of a bell crankfulcrumed upon the fixed stud-screw 34-3 and having a rearwardlyextending arm 344- sustaining the stud 345 oarrying the antitrictionroller 346 adapted for engagement of a ram-plate 347 which is secured tothe fare of the ram disk 305. v i Mounted upon a lateral arm 343 of alug 349 risin from the arm rover-plate 350 is a tension evice ofwellknown form, com prising the separable 351 normally pressed wherebythe together by means of the 5 ring 352' whose tension is adapted to here ieved from saidJlisks by means of the axial pin 3333. Overlying thefree end of the pin 353 is the ram-fared head 3 54 ofa push-bar 355slotted in its upper portion to embrace the guide screw-pin 3.10 andhaving an enlarged base 3.37 with ram-sha )ed lower and rearward edge.The bar 35- is normally drawn downwardly and forwardly by means of aspring 353 connecting it with a pin 35!) upon the standard '2, wherebyit is normally maintained in (on tact with the side of the hub 165' ofthe wank-arm 165, and a tooth 3360 upon the. adjacent edge of the bar355 is adapted to be introduced into a detent notch 165" of the hub 165when the arm 165 isin normal position. '7'

'hen the stitch-forming mechanism is at re t. the 'head 354 of the bar355 operailirely engages the end of the release-pin 353 and relieves thepressure of the spring 352 upon the tension disks, but in the initial0peratireqnove ment of the"swinging arm 165, its detentsrieteh lfifi.arts as a cam element whereby the spring 358 is reused. to draw therelease bar 355 into lower orreleasing position, wherein the notch inthe inner or operative ineffective t0 threarlel=unping disks needle in,pending arm 371 of face of its head 354 (Fig. (3) will come intoregister with the release pin 3353. lo the opening of the work-clamp byengagement of the trip-rod 335) with the tapprt-arrn 338, the rorking ofthe belh-rank H2 3-H muses the engagement of the stud 3+3 with the base357 of the release bar 355, and lifts the name into operative engagementwith. the release pin 353 in whivh position it is looked by entranse ofthe tooth 1W! into the deteut notrh 165".

Depending from the arm rover-plate 35H is a well 361 having in itsbottom a transverse slot to rereiro the upper side of a ('()]Il])0llIHltake-up rain comprising spaced disks 3152 fixed upon the tubular shaftor sleeve 15. livotally mounted within a transverse rhaum-l ol' therover-plate 350 by means of a pm 3433 is a t'l'()HS-lHll' 364 rarryingthe depending arms 33? formed with tliroudryrs at their lower ends andembraring the lake-up ram-disks. The i'rossdml' sustains also adepending plate 366 entering the spare intermwlialu the take-up disks362 and provided with llH rurred thread-guiding slot 367 of whirh thelower end terminates in register with the tlireadeyes ol' the arms 36?.The bar 364 is normally maintained in operative posi- (ion l) means ofthe spring 36 (l 'igs. l. 3 and 2 The take-up disks 3132 tour. uni-hbeing formed upon sides of ilsaxis of uioreuwnt with active edgeportiousat dill'erent distanres from sin-h axis. The inner edges ofthese disks. or those nearest the axis, art upon the needle-threadpassing through the guideivesoi' thearms ififi in the cooperation of thenon-threadial looper and spreader with the needle in a greaterdegreethan the opposite edges ill the slu'rem'ling reoipl' r'atimi ofthe roiiperatiou with the threaded looper. Theobjeot of this is to:H'PUTIIHIU- date the takwup tothe slightly different (pnditionsinvolved a: rnately arting loopt:1klng deviros oi dill'ereut rhararter.so as to sewure the at most ellieienry iu the control oi' the needlethread in its.manipulation by the looptaking elements under allconditions.

The tubular shaft 15 is shown having se- 311' of similar roua (airedthereon the cam-disk 36.) peripherally engaging the rollerst11d 3T0 uponthe de- 7 a ['(K'k lever fuh-runied upon the pin 372 within a slot ofthe roverplate 350 and having an upwardly extend mg arm rarrylng amutant sr-rew-pin 3Y3 adapted for engagement with aplunger-pin 374 of aneedle-thrad nipping devmo1" welhknown form.

s indicated in Figs. 2, 4 and 6, the roan ward side of the housingrecess in the base is iosed by means of a door 375 recessed upon itsinner side and mounted at its lower opposite ill) Iii!

edge upon the pivotal stud-srrews 157i; 5 a\ to swing outwardly toexpose the park within suoh reress. being held in closed position bymeans of the detent spring iii. laeeing lengthwise through thi door arethe threadgniding tuhes 31 for iliir-iii ir ing lll'. tower stitchingthread and the gimp to the forward end of the machine from whit-h theare led to the loop-taking met-in I arm beneath the hwhplate.

As represented in Figs. 1 to T of the dean age, the iarious operativeparts of the nor rhine are in the positions which the) asau ne at therompletion of a lmttonhoh: produeing (-yele and in. readiness for asueeeeding ryrie. The drawing down of the treadle rod 2% rocks thestarting lever 5315- 219. which retained in running position by HLQEU1ol' the spring-pressed latch-arm 226. In its operative movement. thestarting lever carries the tripping arm E231 against the, stud $235.thereby tilting the release lever into en gagement with the stop-pin 241and ltwking the lateh-ierer to the still moving starting lever; wherebythe lntrh-tooth 242 is disengigod from the plunger-pin iii and tin latter released for engagement with the elaniprinsing ram-groove 172. Theseveral elements referred to remain lurked together in extreme positionunder the detaining aetion oi the latch-arm 226while the phiral-arnwd(lamp-closing lever performs. its operative movement, in the course ofnhirh th em counter of the inwardly projecting artion of the plunger-pin174 with the tail of the release lever 23f tilts the latter upon ilarasperrtire fuierutn and therehy shift the stud 235 beyond the outerextremity of the tripping .irm 2 3i and releases the lateh-lerer 2%whit-h. under the action of its spring.

: Hlil!]t. woolen-t relation with the aide of the lunger-pin iii andsnaps into the nutrh of ii. latt r upon its, eievtion from the rain- :nmn: or the hlo 'k 1. 5

The il-i'r int oi the lev r-arm i7? operate i-iiliillll, to rinse the(lamp Wililll is spread in the return movement of the dependinglt'\ll-itl'!tl 17*. as before desrriiwri. l ver-arm 1T0 wrt'orms itsbrand-fro i-lamplosing and spreading movements. the cross- :'-thal't 1W3i rorlted through the huh and wank-arm ronni-rtion 1H. 21:1. to impartto the tripping pawl hurrying arm to? its idle forward and p rative haltwtard movement a". the eomphi on of ihi h the pawl H3 retina-is andlW' F the holding arm 154 in its outer 'isition erein the stud 1-32 isdisengagt-d from the fiflfitlllitl) reeiprorating pan har Hi whith isthus permitted to :1. WITH operative relation with the shorter ri ipawl-teeth I30.

I the controlling wheel 129 performs tin initial stage of its ii.L'})"lIV-5t[) rotary morn-ant in coinniunieating to the feedwheel itspreliminary accelerated movement its the-V to shift the work-hohler fromcutting In stitrhing position, the forward invlined far of the running291' llit' lillliti'r and thrusts aside the arm :aoo, (ht-rah liftingthe arm iitlfl whose engagement with the arm 1H2! ot the tripping pawlserves to disengage the hitter from the member 161 of the holding armand permits the latter, under the action of its spring. to rarry thestud 152 into eontaet with the side fare of the pawl-bar lit and to snapheneath the same when the pawhhar is next lifted sutiieiently by engagement of its nose with the incline 133 of the controlling wheel.

Just prior to this tlltltbn the nose 277 of the tripping hlock 2T6 ridesup the inclined shoulder 13 of the ram-rib 135 for etl'erting aetuationof the stop-motion, thereby initiat ng the stitching and normalwork-feeding perations which eontinne until the nUbt' 2T? rides off theshoulder 13? to terminate the stitching and \\'orl(-feedil]g operations.\s the slide-block 267 of the stop-motion devil-e rises under the actionof die (ram 262. the ram element 291 acts through the elesvriiual(-onnet'tions to thrust outwardly the plungerpin 293 and thereby retractthe holding arm no for disengagement of the roller-stud 15'. from thepawl-liar l-ll. therein permitting the hitter to resume engagement withthe longer series of ratvlietieeth l il ot' the von troiiing wheel l2whivh arts. as in the ini' tial stage of the rycle. to impart anai'relerated movement to the feed-wheel in returning the work-holder toinitial position. in the HHH'SE of whii'h the rearward fare of therunning 299 eneounters the arm 301) and vausr-s the release of theholding arm 154 for final engagement of the pawl-haiunder the :u-tion ofits spring at the vompletitpi of the hnttonholw]iro hwing ryi'h'.

Just as the l vediwln-el shaft is vomplet ing a rotation, the trippingpoint 325 of the disk 324' engages the trip leve-r Iiili whit-h flliftfi the (Hit01rrmT 'uliihg lever il and initiates the roupling ofthe cutter-shaft with the ltuist halt-wheel 171 for effecting thecutting operation whit-h is produred hy the means he't'ore dearrihed. Asthe rutting elements retir a fter a huttonhole euttiiig artion. the ramAl i arts upon the triprod 211 to lire-ah the vianip-spreading togghaand at suhstantially.the same time the ramplate &4; enrounters the stud345 which arts upon the Lappvbarm 3 in through the de i'rih d corm ionsto open the work-holder, while tin engagement of the ml 345 with thetension release bar 355 acts to open the l1(.('fllt'-iltl't*tlll tensionderive \Vllll'll remains open by engagement of the tooth 361') with thedetent nott'h 165" until the starting mechanism is again operated.

One of the many practical advantages of the present machine. as thusdeserihed, is the areeeaihility of the moving parts, and

ill)

llH)

lit

particularly those which are liable to require more or less. attention,substantially all of which are so disposed that they may be reachedwithout turning over the machine frame. 'hile the various features ofconstruction and arrangement are herein represented in their preferredembodiments, it will be readily understood that. they may be greatlymodified within the scope of the present invention.

It will be observed that the function of the set of interchangeablepattern or controlling wheels, as hereinbefore described, is to adapt agiven machine, without adjustments dependent upon theskill of anattendant, to produce buttonholes of different contours, which mavinvolve either variations in length or in the character of the ends (asby provision or omission of eyelet ends). or both; each of suchinterchangeable wheels being designed to effect the control of themachine to produce bnttonholes having one of the desired contours. It isevident that the present invention includes within its scope mechanismincluding a controlling wheel or element provided in itself with meansacting directly to effect a variation in the normal relative travelbetween the stitch-forming mechanism and the work, as disclosed, forinstance, in my pending application Serial No. 175L139, filed July 7,uni. 7

llaving thus set. forth the nature of the .nvention, what I claim hereinis:-

l. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitclrforminginstrumentalities, a work-holder, a. sewing shaft and drivingconnections for actuating thestitcht'orming instrnnientalities and forrelatively feeding the latter and the worlz-holder to sew around abuttonl'lolc. and a removable feed-controlling element distinct from andcoiipcratiug with said driving connections for production of abuttonhole of a given contour and replaceable by a dilferent controllingelement adapted to coact with said driving connections for production ofa buttonholc of different contour.

2. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a work-holder, feeding mechanism including an actuatingelement and a follower therefor for producing between thestitcl'rforming mechanism and the worlcholder relative feeding movementsin a defined path in cooperation of the work-holder with thestitcht'orming mechanism during a stitching period, and a controllingelement normally connected with said feeding mechanism for determiningthe range of said relative feeding movements and replaceable by anothercontrolling element without change of the cooperative relation of theactuating and follower element of the feeding for effecting variation insaid range of mechanism 4 movement in the cooperation of the work?holder with the stitch-forming mechanism.

3. In a lmttonhole sewing machine, in combination, feeding feedingmovements between the stitchforming mechanism and the work and com--prising an actuating member and a follower sustained in permanentcooperative relation therewith and means for im arting to said member inconsecutive periods relatively slow and rapid operative movements, and aremovable controlling element for controlling the relative len andreplaceable by a ifi'erent controlling element for changing the relativelengths of said periods.

4. In a huttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, ar mating means therefor, coupling means for effecting theconnection and disconnection of the stitch-firming mechanism and itsactuating means, and means including a removable controlling element fordetermining the timing of said connection and disconnection andreplaceable by a different controlling element for changing said timing.

5. In a bnttonhole sewing machine. in

combination," stitch -forming mechanism, feeding meclfanism including afeed-Wheel, and a follower sustained in permanent cooperative relationtherewith, and actuating means for said feed-wheel acting during theperiod of operation of the stitchforming mechanism, and a controllingelement for said actuating means normally partaking of the movements ofsaid feedwheel and replaceable by a different 'c'ontroL ling element forchanging the period of action of said actuating means upon thefeed-wheel.

6. In a huttonhole sewin a machine, in combination. stitch-formingmechanism, feeding mechanism including a feedovheel and a followersustained in permanent cooperative relation therewith, actuating meansfor said feed-wheel,'and means ineluding a removable controlling elementacting upon said actuating meansto determine the period of action ofsaid mechanism and replaceable by a different controlling element forchanging said period of action.

7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming"mechanism and feeding mechanism for producing relative feeding movementsbetween the stitchforming mechanism and the .vork and comprising afeed-wheel and means permanently connected therewith for impartingthereto operative movements during stitching periods and means forimparting thereto further movements intbrmediate stitchin periods, and aremovable. controlling element for determining "the relative periods thsof said periods.

stitch forming mechanism, mechamsm for producing relative

